Sex machines build your own. Beginners Guide To Sex Machines.



Sex machines build your own

Sex machines build your own

This is a pain to do, but it is neceessary in order to remove the chassis cover. Not only that, but it looks lot nicer without the labels. To do this, remove the two mounting screws on the back and loosen the voltage regulator mounting clamp screw on the side. If you look on the inside of the chassis while you loosen the clamp screw you will notice a small metal arm attached to the threads that is pinching the voltage regulator to the side of the chassis.

Once the screw is loosened a bit, rotate that arm to free the voltage regulator. Slide the circuit board from the chassis and the plastic sheet that lies between the circuit board and chassis. Find four spaces on the board where there are no exposed solder connections and mark them on the plastic sheet with a sharpee.

These dots correspond to where the mounting holes will be drilled into the chassis and where the heads of the mounting screws will rest.

Do not drill through the plastic sheet itself. This is important for insulating the circuit board from the chassis.

Also, make sure that the surface that was in contact with the circuit board when you marked the dots is now facing up. This will ensure that your holes are in the correct location. I tapped these holes for machine screws, but you could just as easily use nuts to secure the screws. The rubber washers help insulate the control unit from vibration and provide some space for the cable to be secured behind the chassis. Notice that that I have added a chassis ground. This is easy to do as a hole is already provided for this purpose on the chassis.

Simply attach bothe the ground wire from your power cable and from the motor and you are done. The system is properly grounded. There are also two pairs of wires that are attached to the AC power block: Although Vac-U-Lock dildos and toys were relatively difficult to find, they is a wide variety of toys, adaptors, and accessories available today.

There are several advantages to the Vac-U-Lock system: Plus, Matt has a full machine shop and can custom make any type of shaft or adapter that you need. He may be contacted at: They are free of harmful chemicals, such as pthalates, they are specifically designed to work with Vac-U-Lock adapters, and Doc Johnson is the manufacturer of choice for many of the performers in the adult industry.

Tips from the Trenches Tips from the Trenches Here are a few things that I learned during this build that may help you with your build. If you are an experienced fabricator, many of these may be pretty obvious, but if you are a novice like me, they may save you from some stress.

The first time that I wired the vibrator as described in this tutorial, it blew up when I turned it on. I have a great deal of respect for electricity and was very careful when designing and wiring it, so I was surprised when loud popping sounds and puffs of magic smoke emerged from the vibrator. After a careful investigation, I discovered that the Chinese have a creative method for numbering the pins on the 8-pin aviation connector. Pin 1 on the plug is supposed to contact Pin 1 on the jack, Pin 2 should connect with Pin 2, etc.

However, it turned out that the numbering was off on the 8-pin jack. So, Pin 1 of the plug connected with Pin 7 of the jack, Pin 2 of the plug connected with Pin 1 of the jack, and so on. This resulted in electricity flowing incorrectly through the system and the vibrator blew up as a result. I ordered another vibrator, wired everything again, making some adjustments for the errant pin numbering, and voila! The moral of the story is to check your wiring with a multimeter before plugging your new machine into the wall.

When tapping a hole into steel, I have found it helpful to do three things: If the rotation was the face on a clock, I would cut from This process is a bit tedious, but since going to this pattern, I have not broken a single tap. Prior to this, I broke a lot of them. This worked perfectly until the very end when I wanted to put on end caps. The vibrator used for this build requires v AC power, so this has to be run from the motor control unit, through the wiring and connectors, to reach the vibrator.

Because the connectors used in this build have male pins in the panel mount jacks, two of the pins in the 8-pin jack run v whenever the unit is plugged in. If the vibrator is not plugged into the jack, these v pins will be exposed and may pose a shock hazard. So, keep the vibrator plugged in whenever the machine is plugged into power. Back in Medieval times, crafts men and women worked cooperatively, rather than competitively.

This meant that everyone shared any new discovery or technique they had developed so that everyone could benefit. So far, the machine-building community seems to have some of that spirit, which is why I spent some time to put this document together. I hope that you also share what you create so that we may all learn. If you have any thoughts or suggestions as I go through this process, I would appreciate your feedback.

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How to make sex machine



Sex machines build your own

This is a pain to do, but it is neceessary in order to remove the chassis cover. Not only that, but it looks lot nicer without the labels. To do this, remove the two mounting screws on the back and loosen the voltage regulator mounting clamp screw on the side. If you look on the inside of the chassis while you loosen the clamp screw you will notice a small metal arm attached to the threads that is pinching the voltage regulator to the side of the chassis. Once the screw is loosened a bit, rotate that arm to free the voltage regulator.

Slide the circuit board from the chassis and the plastic sheet that lies between the circuit board and chassis. Find four spaces on the board where there are no exposed solder connections and mark them on the plastic sheet with a sharpee.

These dots correspond to where the mounting holes will be drilled into the chassis and where the heads of the mounting screws will rest. Do not drill through the plastic sheet itself.

This is important for insulating the circuit board from the chassis. Also, make sure that the surface that was in contact with the circuit board when you marked the dots is now facing up. This will ensure that your holes are in the correct location. I tapped these holes for machine screws, but you could just as easily use nuts to secure the screws. The rubber washers help insulate the control unit from vibration and provide some space for the cable to be secured behind the chassis.

Notice that that I have added a chassis ground. This is easy to do as a hole is already provided for this purpose on the chassis. Simply attach bothe the ground wire from your power cable and from the motor and you are done.

The system is properly grounded. There are also two pairs of wires that are attached to the AC power block: Although Vac-U-Lock dildos and toys were relatively difficult to find, they is a wide variety of toys, adaptors, and accessories available today. There are several advantages to the Vac-U-Lock system: Plus, Matt has a full machine shop and can custom make any type of shaft or adapter that you need. He may be contacted at: They are free of harmful chemicals, such as pthalates, they are specifically designed to work with Vac-U-Lock adapters, and Doc Johnson is the manufacturer of choice for many of the performers in the adult industry.

Tips from the Trenches Tips from the Trenches Here are a few things that I learned during this build that may help you with your build. If you are an experienced fabricator, many of these may be pretty obvious, but if you are a novice like me, they may save you from some stress.

The first time that I wired the vibrator as described in this tutorial, it blew up when I turned it on. I have a great deal of respect for electricity and was very careful when designing and wiring it, so I was surprised when loud popping sounds and puffs of magic smoke emerged from the vibrator. After a careful investigation, I discovered that the Chinese have a creative method for numbering the pins on the 8-pin aviation connector. Pin 1 on the plug is supposed to contact Pin 1 on the jack, Pin 2 should connect with Pin 2, etc.

However, it turned out that the numbering was off on the 8-pin jack. So, Pin 1 of the plug connected with Pin 7 of the jack, Pin 2 of the plug connected with Pin 1 of the jack, and so on. This resulted in electricity flowing incorrectly through the system and the vibrator blew up as a result.

I ordered another vibrator, wired everything again, making some adjustments for the errant pin numbering, and voila! The moral of the story is to check your wiring with a multimeter before plugging your new machine into the wall. When tapping a hole into steel, I have found it helpful to do three things: If the rotation was the face on a clock, I would cut from This process is a bit tedious, but since going to this pattern, I have not broken a single tap.

Prior to this, I broke a lot of them. This worked perfectly until the very end when I wanted to put on end caps. The vibrator used for this build requires v AC power, so this has to be run from the motor control unit, through the wiring and connectors, to reach the vibrator.

Because the connectors used in this build have male pins in the panel mount jacks, two of the pins in the 8-pin jack run v whenever the unit is plugged in. If the vibrator is not plugged into the jack, these v pins will be exposed and may pose a shock hazard.

So, keep the vibrator plugged in whenever the machine is plugged into power. Back in Medieval times, crafts men and women worked cooperatively, rather than competitively. This meant that everyone shared any new discovery or technique they had developed so that everyone could benefit.

So far, the machine-building community seems to have some of that spirit, which is why I spent some time to put this document together. I hope that you also share what you create so that we may all learn. If you have any thoughts or suggestions as I go through this process, I would appreciate your feedback.

Sex machines build your own

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1 Comments

  1. They are free of harmful chemicals, such as pthalates, they are specifically designed to work with Vac-U-Lock adapters, and Doc Johnson is the manufacturer of choice for many of the performers in the adult industry. So, keep the vibrator plugged in whenever the machine is plugged into power. Use a proper adaptor to mount a dildo, don't just stick a dildo on the end of a saw blade as anyone with a modicum of common sense can see what is going to happen if you use it and serious injury of god forbid death could result from doing so.

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